HT121X01 101 PDF

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The instructions below are long and nt121x01, but don’t be discouraged; they’re just over-detailed for the first-time modder. The high level process is actually pretty simple:. It should go without saying, but remove AC power and the battery before opening the machine. Be aware that the backlight inverter is always powered when the machine itself has powered, even when the machine is turned off. The official Hardware Maintenance Manuals describe and illustrate the ht121xx01 disassembly process in detail:.

Note that it’s not strictly necessary to remove the entire lid and hinges from the rest of the laptop, though the HMM recommends this. The screen bezel is held in place both with screws and small plastic latches along all four sides of the screen; some of 110 latches pop apart upwards, but most pop apart sidewaysoften alternating inward and outward. If the plastic is in danger of bending or cracking, that’s pulling too hard; back off and try a hr121x01 direction.

Also, most ThinkPad models have a strip of strong adhesive tape along the bottom edge of the screen bezel, holding the bezel to the bottom of the screen.

It will peel free with slow, steady pressure and although the hardware manual says otherwiseit can be reused a few times. If it’s badly damaged or destroyed during disassembly, Killer’s ‘Red’ adhesive transfer tape is a good replacement really, Killer Red is a staple of laptop modding; if you don’t ht121z01 any, get some and you’ll wonder how you lived without it.

Also unplug and remove CCFL inverter board.

Testing the backlight now ensures it arrived in working condition, which can narrow down the troubleshooting possibilities if a problem occurs later during installation. Remove the hard drive, then power the machine on.

(PDF) HT121X01-101 Datasheet download

The laptop will happily boot to the splash screen without an LCD plugged in, not that you can see it. Within a count of 10, the LED backlight should fire.

Ht121x011 this state, the screen brightness controls should work across their full range. Do not leave the machine powered if there is any problem with operation of the backlight.

When working normally, the driver will get warm to the touch, especially at full brightness. The LED strip can get quite hot– this is normal. Once it’s mounted in the ht1211x01, it will be able to dissipate heat more efficiently into the metal backlight bracket than it can into free air.

If an LED driver board that is trimmed for a specific ThinkPad model is plugged into a different model, it’s expected that the brightness range may not be entirely correct. There is no danger to continuing to operate the LED backlight. Clean any crud or debris away from the seams between the LCD’s outer metal frame and the rest of the panel assembly. On non-tablet screens, pay special attention to the edges around the front of the panel.

Any hard grit that makes its way into the panel yt121x01 eventually cause the dreaded ‘white spots’: Tablets are less prone to these spots as the front surface of the panel is sealed. The backlight reflector bracket that houses the CCFL is normally grounded to prevent stray electric fields from disturbing the CCFL’s arc, and to contain any electrical noise generated by the backlight.

The inner surface of the bracket is electrically insulated by a plastic film, but the metal edges of the bracket are exposed. When the bracket is not grounded, the LED strip can only short to itself, which is relatively harmless due to current limiting. Removing the CCFL tube does not require complete panel disassembly, but it does require popping the panel frame slightly open. The LCD panels used in Thinkpads and most laptops are held together by a combination of screws, snap-fit hasps, and adhesive polyester tape.

Look for your panel from the sections below. The prep process is the same regardless the specific model number. If this screen is a finger-touch model what Lenovo used to call ‘multitouch’ before that term came to be used for multiple-finger touch sensingdisconnect the ribbon cable stretching from the front of the panel around the side to the Wacom digitizer on the back. The ribbon is often secured to the connector with a 1101 of polyester tape that’s hard to see, and to the Wacom backplane itself with a square of 1011.

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This tablet screen is ht112x01 with a pressure-sensitive front surface to detect finger contact as well as ht112x01. The touch sensitive front layer is connected to the Wacom controller via the ribbon cable circled in red.

Finger-touch was available with both the older green-and-rust-colored Wacom ht121x001 as well as the later blue-and-silver version pictured. Panels without the indicated ribbon cable accepted pen input only. Remove the two machine screws fastening the LCD controller board to the frame. The flexible plastic cables attaching the controller board to the glass LCD are strong; the heat-bonded connections to the board and LCD glass are not. Flexing the cables is mostly safe, but never tug or peel the connection, or try to lift or move the panel by the controller board.

If any of those connections pulls free, it’s Game Over: I don’t yet know of any DIY fix. For what it’s worth, Ut121x01 damaged exactly one 10 these connections in a decade of disassembling LCD panels.

About nine years ago, I fumbled a panel while flipping it over and, without thinking, grabbed at the controller board rather than letting the panel drop onto the soft, cushioned 011 surface I’d set up to prevent exactly that kind of accident. AFFS tablet screen equipped with the older rust-and-green Wacom backplane. This style of Wacom is secured to the screen frame with both tape and two machine screws circled in bluewhere the blue-and-silver version is only taped in place.

The machine screws holding the LCD panel controller to the frame are circled in red. This particular screen does not have the finger-touch option. Carefully remove the Wacom digitizer backplane from the panel.

Pull gently and slowly; do not crease or break the white frame or exposed portions of the white plastic sheet inside the frame. The H121x01 backplane itself is fairly sturdy. Replace for hht121x01 the two machine screws fastening the LCD controller board to the frame. We don’t want the controller PCB flopping around during other work. The screws will have to come back out again later to allow replacing the Wacom backplane during reassembly. Remove the thin white polyester tape that joins the metal frame to the white plastic frame, located along the bottom of the panel near the backlight.

Also remove the thin yellow tape underneath to expose the tiny machine screws on the far left and the far right side of hr121x01 panel. The next few steps are optional to prevent any accidental short circuits between the LED supply and a grounded backlight bracket.

A short to ground will blow either the fuse on the inverter board there’s only oneor fuse F2 on the top of the motherboard between the LCD cable connector and the processor socket. Remove the metal clips on the sides of the panel that cover the plastic mounting tabs and are secured to the white plastic frame with tiny screws.

After removing the clips, replace the screws to re-secure the underlying metal tabs extending from the backlight bracket. Remove the backlight grounding clips by first unscrewing the screw fastening them to the backlight bracket, then sliding them off the plastic mounting tab. The metal clips removed in the previous step connect the backlight bracket to ground, but also function as reinforcements and thin spacers around the panel’s plastic mounting tab.

We’ll need to put them back during reassembly for everything to fit perfectly, but we don’t want them to connect the backlight bracket to ground. Cut the clip in half so that only the portion surrounding the white plastic mounting tab remains see below.

Don’t replace the clips now; we’ll put them back onto the mounting tabs later during final reassembly after finishing the LED installation. The two clips on either side of the panel that connect the backlight bracket to ground also function as spacers and reinforcements around the plastic mounting tabs. We cut the connection to the backlight bracket off each ht12101, and will replace the clips back onto the mounting 110 later during final reassembly. Carefully remove or just peel up the side of the white protective tape along the right side of the panel.

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This tape covers three short, flexible ribbon cable tabs extending from the side of the glass LCD layer. The connections between the ribbon and glass are fragile; do not pull on the exposed tabs. Unscrew the two black machine screws on the sides of the screen near the bottom that attach the metal outer frame to the inner plastic frame. Remove the tape along the bottom and right side of the panel that secures the metal outer frame to the inner plastic frame, backlight bracket, and rear reflector.

Also remove the two black screws, one on the left and one on the right blue arrowsthat attach the metal frame to the bottom of hy121x01 plastic inner frame. Panel after tape and screw removal. The protective white tape along the right of the screen covered three flexible cable tabs that curl from the front of the screen and protrude slightly above the frame. Take care handling the tabs as their connection to the glass LCD layer is fragile.

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Leave the flexible tabs along the right side of the panel exposed for now; be careful not to abuse them by tugging, yanking, or shocking them flexing is fine, just touching them also won’t break anything.

Do not replace the black screws we removed from the sides of the frame, as we still need to pop the metal frame open later. Breaking the backlight bracket ground connection The next few steps are optional to prevent any accidental short circuits between the LED supply and a grounded backlight bracket. Remove the two tiny black screws on the back of the panel that connect the backlight bracket to the two metal side-mounting clips one on each side. The side-mounting clips both provide the mounting threads for the hinges and connect the backlight bracket to ground.

To sever the ground path, we cut off the tab that connects to the backlight bracket. The connecting tabs can simply be bent back and cut with diagonals, though this will probably leave a raised sharp edge. Personally, I prefer to remove the clips, make a clean cut cut, and replace. The clips wrap around the plastic inner frame, so it’s necessary to pop open a few of the hasps holding the outer metal and inner plastic frames together, separate the halves by a few millimeters, pull each clip free, cut it, return it to the plastic frame, then close the metal frame back into position.

Removing the clip allows for a cleaner cut. Picture of the removed mounting clip after cutting off the tab that provides a ground path for the metal backlight bracket. The black screw at top fastened the metal frame to the mounting clip. The black screw at bottom fastened the clip to the backlight bracket and the backlight bracket to the plastic inner frame.

Remove the white and the yellow pieces of polyester tape along the bottom and sides of the panel that secure the frame, backlight bracket, and rear reflector surface to one another. Don’t mess with the tape along the top of the screen. Remove the aluminum tape on the bottom right that provides an electrical ground connection between the backlight bracket and outer metal frame.

Remove tape that secures the metal outer frame to the plastic inner frame, backlight bracket, and rear reflector from along the bottom and sides of the panel. The Samsung backlight bracket is grounded to the frame by a piece of conductive aluminum tape circled in red. Remove this tape to break the ground connection. The easiest way to remove the original CCFL is to snip the wires free at both ends of the tube, trim away the thin plastic tabs holding the backlight tube in place at both ends, and then carefully pull the CCFL tube out of the panel.